Back in early April 2003 I put on a show at the legendary
CBGBs. I set up the show because one of
my favorite bands at the time was coming to the States for a short tour from
Holland and I wanted to make sure that I got to see them in a proper
venue. A few friends and I decided to
follow them for the next few days to Pittsburgh and then to Dayton with a pit
stop in Cleveland sandwiched in between.
We had spent a couple of hours in Cleveland a couple of
years before when we followed another band on a tour for a couple of days. The Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame was the primary
driving force in each of the trips.
Outside of the Hall, we only got a small taste of Cleveland’s downtown
and put the idea of coming back in our heads.
This time around the Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame had a special exhibit on
the Ramones because of their upcoming induction, so a trip seemed
mandatory.
We pulled into Cleveland in the early afternoon on a Sunday
and checked into our budget hotel. The concierge recommended a certain street
with a few different pub type options for food.
We set out, tired from multiple nights of shows and multiple days of
driving. We stopped at the first place
we saw and had a pleasant meal in a fairly crowded pub. There was an excitement in the air about the
Indians opening their season the next day.
We left the pub and walked around downtown by the stadiums. You got the sense of just how important
sports are to the city. The stadiums
were immaculate, a stark contrast to most of the other buildings.
The sun started to set and half of our group wanted to call
it a night. We headed back to the hotel to
drop them off and to pick the concierge’s brain as to where to head for a night
out. Without missing a beat he
recommended the Warehouse District.
The Warehouse District sounded perfect! In my mind it’d be Cleveland’s proverbial
Williamsburg or Long Island City, a run down area turned around by people who
saw potential in a blighted area. With a
Xeroxed copied map in hand Chris and I headed out into the unseasonably cold
night. The wind off the lake cut through
our thin jackets and hoodies, chilling us to the bone.
We popped our heads into the first promising place, which
was right off of the water. It was
empty. Strange we thought but it must
not be a very good place. Two doors down
we look through the glass to see one person at the bar and two employees. Stranger still. Like dominoes we dropped by place after place
to find that the bar with three people was by far the most packed of any of
them. You must be thinking, well it must
have been pretty late and people have work in the morning so that’s why this
hip and happening area must be deserted. That would be a fair point except that
it couldn’t have been later than 8:30pm.
It started to dawn on us that either Cleveland sucks or we got some back
advice as to where to go out.
We wandered some more hoping fate would land us somewhere
memorable. We turned down a desolate
street, really every street was desolate but this one was different. A down on his luck man in his 50’s with a
bushy gray and white beard, filthy Starter Cleveland Browns windbreaker and
Chicago Cubs hard plastic batting helmet, put down his sign and walked up to us
uttering a phrase I will never forget.
“Give me $5 and I will blow your mind.”
Yes, there were two of us. Yes, he had a good 6 inches on
me. Yes, he had a good hundred pounds on
each of us. Yes, that’s a terrifying
thing to hear when you are in an unfamiliar city, on a dead end block and no
other witnesses around.
Chris, who was either unintimidated or extremely
intimidated, reached into his pocket and handed the guy whatever change he
had.
“Good enough. Go down
the block and make a left and you WILL see Michael Jordan.”
We walked away from the guy, laughing and speculating about
the encounter. I was convinced that the
old nut job must have been referring to a Michael Jordan cut out in a
Footlocker or some picture in a Michael Jordan Steakhouse. Still, what else did we have to do? In the hour and a half of wandering the city
the most promising place had three people inside and two of them worked there.
Down the block we went and promptly made a left at the corner. Like every other street in Cleveland it was
dead. We scanned the storefronts and
upper floors of every building for any two dimensional images of number 23 but
there was nothing. The wind picked up, we pulled up our collars and our hoods,
trying to retain any heat. From the
unknowing, casual observer, we probably looked like two vagrants; shivering
from the cold, completely under dressed for the season with raggy looking
clothing, unshaved from a few days on the road. We kept looking with every second more and
more convinced that the guy was at best delusional and at worst certifiably
crazy.
From behind us was heard the clacking of heels on the
concrete and a young woman excitedly yelling into her cellphone.
“Oh my god! Michael
Jordan is in my restaurant!”
Our eyes lite up and I ran towards the lady as fast as I
could screaming, “Where?!?!” Hopefully
the euphoria she was feeling from her previous experience overshadowed the fear
that I thought she must have felt as an unkempt stranger rapidly approached her
car on a desolate street. She pointed to
the corner and back away in an effort to keep her from hanging up and dialing
911.
We backtracked to the corner and through the floor to
ceiling windows of an Italian restaurant there was Michael Jordan in a suit
sitting with three other guys in suits.
We waved, he waved back, we went back to give the man the rest of his $5
because our minds were most certainly blown.
The story should end there but the epilogue is the cherry to
this wonderful Sunday. We found the man
where we had left him and reached into our wallets to give him the five American
dollars, which he was earned and was entitled to. He literally burst into song. It was the catchiest of tunes that we sang
for the rest of the tour.